🌸 Noire Henro-San: In Between Raindrops

An umbrella offers a clear view to Temple 26 on another rainy day on Shikoku.

ongocho-ji temple is the 26th temple on the Shikoku 88 pilgrimage. It is the 4th of 23 temples on Kochi prefecture. So far, I have not visited a temple in Kochi when it was not raining. In the mountains on a good weather day, it takes about an hour and a half to walk the 3.7 kilometers between temples 25 and number 26.

Before I got out of bed at my accommodation, the rain had already begun. When I started out in the morning, it was still raining. Oh yes, it was going to be one of those days. No surprise. The footprints I leave in Kochi today are definitely going to be wet!

A wonderful thing that defines life in Japan are umbrellas – for protection from sun and rain – all over the place. Little stands inside or outside stores, inns, and businesses hold many of them. They can be borrowed to make a way from one place to another.

After its purpose is fulfilled, it is dropped into a holder and left there if the rain stops or picked up if it doesn’t. Likewise, anyone else can pick up and drop one off at another place. It is a neat and efficient system that enables people to accomplish tasks and simply go on with their lives. I found a small umbrella this way.

Woman in a while pilgrims coat under an umbrella.
My “borrowed” umbrella protects me from rain on the road and in the forests.

Right now I am carrying it with me on the trail. Ponchos are hot and noisily flap in the wind. An umbrella is just enough to protect my covered backpack, my stick, and my head. It enables me to stay cool and continue my walk along the trail.

I walked much of the way from the inn to the temple through the forest. I emerged from the path directly across from the parking lot. The temple opens at 8 a.m. I will go to the office first for my stamp. Then I will visit the temple grounds in between the raindrops.

Click on the video**

I exited the forest and crossed the road to the stone steps leading to the temple grounds.

Carved medallions on the stone steps leading to the temple.

Located on the west side of Cape Muroto, it is called Nishidera (West Temple).

Temple fountain for ablutions and cleansing.
Main hall at temple 26 in Kochi, Japan.
Main hall.
Incense urn in front of main hall on temple 26 grounds.
Large incense urn at the main hall.

The ancient temple benefitted from prestigious patronage by feudal lords in Tosa. After the Meiji or imperial takeover, Tosa was reconfigured and renamed Kochi.

A belfry or bell tower with six pillars instead of four is an obvious sign of that prestige. I learned that there are not many of them in Japan.

Bell tower at temple 26.
Six pillars on a belfry or bell tower is a rare structural feature in Japanese temples.

Click on the video**

I spotted a few more visitors at the temple. A rainy day is soothing and calming for some.

For me, it is a reminder to move along.

Click on the video**


Practicalities!

See you next time on Shikoku 88 pilgrimage.

Baadaye and Mata ne

Shirley J 👣


**Note:

If the videos won’t load or play properly, you can always visit my YouTube channel: Noire Pilgrim by Shirley J to watch..



During the spring of 2024, I began a pilgrimage in Japan where I am walking 1200 kilometers or 720 miles on the Shikoku trail from Temple 1 Ryōzenji to Temple 88 Ōkuboji and beyond. Read my original announcement here.

I am excited, and I am here, still walking. And just know this, I will return to tell the tale!








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