I take one step, then another… inching toward the end of Tokushima prefecture. For some reason, my efforts to finish this dojo have been just that – excruciatingly slow. It feels like I am strapped into a training harness. The more I think about moving forward, the harder it becomes to get to the end. The reality is that I am moving. Or rather, my feet are moving. I am reaching my daily destinations. What could it be?
It’s Slow walking
… and thinking, of course. I am here on a pilgrimage in Japan – Shikoku island – visiting 88 temples in the mountains, coastlines, and towns on the route attributed to Kōbō Daishi.
One of my tasks or goals here is to increase my wisdom by learning about the life of the Buddhist master. I am continuing my spiritual practice walking in nature, visiting the temples, and leaving my footprints all over this island. My purpose is not to seek perfection or a definitive answer to anything.
Discovering and accepting truths about the world and its effect on my life in this setting is a test. The sights, smells, and sounds of trees, flowers, planted fields, streams, and ocean fill me with joy. sometimes, I appreciate what is before me, that is, what I see. Other times the problems of the world and my own distract me and cloud my vision.
I am learning about impermanence, ouch! But are there any final truths in this world? Does suffering last forever? Nothing lasts forever… I am told. Not the good or the bad. Not even the temples. Should I believe this or that which I see – suffering of my people and people all over this earth? Will one step or many steps around this island help alleviate that suffering and my own?
Walk with me.
Step Onto Temple 22 Byodo-ji
Kukai named this the Temple of Equality, with the wish for the equal happiness of the people and a prayer for the equal relief of all sentient beings.
Kūkai dug this well said to be effective against all diseases.
The steps up to the main hall are a place where believers seek protection from misfortune. They drop coins on each step as they ascend or descend the stairway praying for blessings.
A Japanese ohenro told me that the long colorful streamers over the temple grounds is an honor to the elders. They wave in the wind from the temple buildings over the steps to the temple gates.
Awareness of the reach of the streamers occurs when walking back down from the main hall.
According to legend, the mountains in the background resemble Kōbō Daishi sleeping. Hmm, I see a silhouette, maybe.
What We See
My belief is we see what we want to see, what we need to see, and eventually what we must see to alleviate suffering in our minds. Many of us may not recognize the moment right away or ever. That, I am beginning to believe, is ok. The enlightenment or nirvana may never be achieved in this life. Simply changing our thinking and the actual act of seeking is enough.
Each step, no matter how slow or how small, delivers these messages to me on this current journey of one thousand two hundred kilometers on Shikoku island.
May many more messages manifest themselves and meet me and all people along the way.
See you next time.
Baadaye and Mata ne
Shirley J 🌸
During the spring of 2024, I began a pilgrimage in Japan where I am walking 1200 kilometers or 720 miles on the Shikoku trail from Temple 1 Ryōzenji to Temple 88 Ōkuboji and beyond. Read my original announcement here.
I am excited, and I am here, still walking. And just know this, I will return to tell the tale!
