Something always happens that brings up our fears. It doesn’t have to stop us.
G
olden Week is a nine day period in Japan from 29 April to 5 May containing four public holidays. It is a time when the country is on vacation… most everyone all at the same time! The national holidays making up Golden Week in 2024 are:
- Monday, April 29: Showa Day (Showa no hi):
This is the birthday of former Emperor Showa, who died in the year 1989.
- Friday, May 3: Constitution Day (Kenpo kinenbi):
On this day in 1947, the new postwar constitution was put into effect.
- Saturday, May 4: Greenery Day (Midori no hi):
The day is dedicated to the environment, because the emperor loved plants and nature.
- Sunday, May 5: Children’s Day (Kodomo no hi):
The Boy’s Festival (Tango no Sekku) is celebrated on this day. Families pray for the health and future success of their sons by hanging up carp streamers and displaying samurai dolls, symbolizing strength, power and success in life.
Note: The Girl’s Festival, Hinamatsuri, is celebrated on March 3. It is held to pray for the healthy growth, prosperity and happiness of daughters.
This year, the weekends for Golden week are placed in a way to create a 3-day and a 4-day holiday period. Travel activity is anticipated to peak on May 3 with people leaving the large urban centers like Tokyo, Kyoto, Osaka, and Kobe. On May 5th and 6th (Sunday and Monday), vacationers reverse their direction and travel back home.
Caught in a Golden Week Jam
This is a time of great anxiety for pilgrims on Shikoku. Hotels, restaurants, cultural and entertainment venues are filled to capacity with prosperous vacationers. They are taking advantage of the time off from work and school to relax and enjoy activities in the countryside and on the beaches.
Heavy demand and higher prices for services and lodging leaves few options for ohenros on the trail seeking the same each day leading up to and through Golden week.
The words “sold out”, “not available”, or “reserved” are repeated in the days or even weeks leading to the holiday. A realization settles in that I am competing with the people of Japan, tourists, and everyone else for the same resources.
It is nerve-racking when hosts and inn keepers constantly point out how difficult it is going to be to get a room. They don’t offer many alternatives. Japanese ohenros seem to have a better idea and resources. Language is an advantage. Also, I was told by one host that some established, older inn keepers don’t rent to “foreigners” or non-Japanese during this time.
It is also a game of supply and demand. Prices increase greatly if fortune happens to favor me, providing a bed or meal.
I am grateful for conbinis (convenience stores), food markets, and those hydration stations that supply me with the nourishment I need.
Hiking Boots on the Ground
I bought a popular Japanese Shikoku 88 guide and map book at temple 1. It is available to buy in English in Japan. Looking through it and understanding it is a baptism in fire – the fire of Shikoku.
I use it to get to the temples – to see how far I have to walk and to find a place to stay that coordinates with the distance. It is a little complicated in its configuration but it is most helpful.
It is also useful when comparing notes with ohenro and even townsfolk who point out things I don’t interpret correctly.
The drama of Golden week dominates the thoughts of most walkers on the trail.
Most conversations about it are tinged with fear and uncertainty. We all discuss the book and its “secrets”. But not always our own. That competition for resources extends to other ohenros who seek to protect their discoveries of a prized place to stay. I already know what that is like from my experience in Spain on the camino. It feels a bit like a bed race, but I’m not “mad” at them or myself.
Some pilgrims, who were already aware that they may not find a room, carry camping equipment. If they have to set up a tent on the trail, they will. Many do not want to exercise that option unless it is the only one available. I am not a camper and have no intention to play one here.
Prior Knowledge
I, too, was aware of this phenomenon known as Golden week shortly before arriving in Japan. Making predictions about where I will be on the trail during the upcoming holiday is not something I could do from home.
Still I chose to walk as ohenro during this time because of the promise of Spring. I need to smell the flowers, bask in the sun, walk on the green grass to keep me uplifted during this rustic, spiritual walk around Shikoku island. That is my intention and my vision.
How do I quiet my mind? Right now, real tears are justified when I bow at a temple gate before entering.
Today, feel your power and your fear, smile and embrace your courage.
Having a vision is about having the willingness to stretch beyond what I know. Being willing to use my mental strength to support that vision often means I am going to be afraid. But I will live to tell this tale. I know it.
Small Steps
This weighs on my mind as I walk on the trail. I review my guide book, listen in and participate in conversations about the looming event. I think, what’s one small step I can take right now to improve this picture?
It may be to see what I can learn from what frightens me. I search in my mind to try another path towards my goal. I’m occupied with all kinds of thoughts of possible scenarios and solutions to this problem.
Is it a problem? Am I making this issue bigger than it should be? I still don’t have a bed or safe place to stay for at least that week or more. Ironically, it is supposed to be a festive time in Japan but for me it could turn tragic.
Am I catastrophizing this in my mind, perhaps in my entire being? Of course I am. I feel wickedly comforted resting in this “woe is me” stance, at least for a short time. It comes then goes so I have to think hard – meditate – while I take each step. Once more, I am surrounded by the beast, the pilgrim slayer called Golden week.
In the midst of this, I keep going. Each day forward and each and every temple visited leading up to Golden week represents a victory in perseverance and courage.
I am feeling a total awakening in this first dojo on Shikoku. It is what I came for, isn’t it?
My Golden Week Strategy
As I open myself to more possibilities, I know I have many choices. Today, it is to keep going. Experience reminds me that not all things in life come to me the first, second or even third time I try.
I begin to let go of how I think things should be and for now, keep walking. Camping or sleeping in the woods is looking pretty good right now. But no, I still have time!
I will make my best efforts with the knowledge that I have today. Taking the good and bad, I will see you next time at Temple 21.
Baadaye and Mata Ne
Shirley J 🌹
During the spring of 2024, I began a pilgrimage in Japan where I am walking 1200 kilometers or 720 miles on the Shikoku trail from Temple 1 RyĹŤzenji to Temple 88 ĹŚkuboji and beyond. Read my original announcement here.
I am excited, and I am here, still walking. And just know this, I will return to tell the tale!
