G
et on the boat! A visit to Naoshima, one of the “artist’s islands” in the Seto Inland Sea, is a bucket list item for many people. I vowed that if I had time at the end of my pilgrimage walk, I would visit. Since it is just north of Shikoku island, I decided to do it.
Naoshima has a couple of traditional fishing villages, Miyanoura and Honmura. It also has art, architecture, museums, colorful galleries and installations. The population is about 3,000 residents. It resembles a vacation beach town that is slow moving and totally laid back. The scenery is beautiful amid the sea in the background.
My hostel in Takamatsu was close to the port where I boarded a ferry to the small island.
The ferry boat docked at Miyanoura port. Nearing the port, I could see Yayoi Kusama‘s Red Pumpkin, on a park jutting out on the water. Most of the passengers walked there first.
A close-up. Visitors can enter the structures through the large open holes.
Me.
Instead of waiting for the bus that makes its way around the island or renting a bike, I walked. The yellow pumpkin on the other side of the island was my destination. It takes almost an hour to walk there. I will have to walk fast to get there and then back to catch the return ferry.
Did I say it was hot? It is… very hot.
Naoshima Pavillion
Not far from the red pumpkin is a geometric structure resembling a delicate, irregular polyhedron. Designed by architect Sou Fujimoto, it is made of white aluminum mesh, creating an intricate, semi-transparent appearance. It is another interactive installation that can be explored from inside.
The pavilion is both a visual and experiential delight, offering visitors a chance to interact with art in a serene outdoor setting.
Every three years, the Setouchi Triennale or the Setouchi International Art Festival is held on Naoshima and the two neighbouring islands, Inujima and Teshima.
After every festival, the majority of the art installations are left on the island, contributing to the ever-increasing collection of outdoor art on Naoshima.
Naoshima Hall
I walked past this unusual looking building. It was built by Hiroshi Sambuichi.
Compared to the larger older structure, it has a modern and unique architecture that is used as a common space for residents of Naoshima.
Beachside Torii.
On the beach at the south end of the island is the famous yellow pumpkin by Yayoi Kusama.
The iconic Yellow Pumpkin is towards the southern end of Naoshima. Also on the beach is the Benesse House Museum and boutique hotel designed by Tadao Ando.
The yellow pumpkin was originally intended for temporary exhibition, but it worked with the island’s theme:“Symbiosis of Nature, Architecture and Art”. As a result, it was kept on permanently.
In 2021, a typhoon knocked the pumpkin into the sea. The damaged artwork was recovered and stored away while it was evaluated. Its long absence caused an uproar among its admirers. After a debate about whether the artwork should be repaired or remade, it was reproduced to the original pumpkin’s exact measurements. In addition. it was made stronger and can be moved if really bad weather threatens.
The new yellow pumpkin was set into place in late 2022.
The line of visitors waiting to photograph themselves with the yellow pumpkin is long!
And I am glad that I did not miss this one!
There are number of art installations and architecture. Besides the Benesse House Musuem, there are the Chichu Art Museum and Lee Ufan Museum.
A project sponsored by the island allows artists from all over Japan and the world to occupy and work in abandoned homes and buildings. The artwork gives the island an eclectic, artful feeling.
The high school was designed by modern Japanese architect Ishii Kazuhiro.
Back to the port
It was a fast walk to get back to the port.
The ferry boat was docked and ready to depart.
This one is painted with giant red arrows. All of the ferry boats are painted with whimsical designs.
Back in Takamatsu City and the hostel.
Where will I go next? See you next time.
Baadaye and Mata Ne (またね)
Shirley J ♥️
This and several posts this summer are chronicling my pilgrimage in Japan where I am walking the 1200 kilometer-long Shikoku 88 temple pilgrimage and beyond. Read my announcement here.
4 thoughts on “🌸 Noire Henro-san: Naoshima”
Beautiful pictures and beautiful art I love it, see you later.👋
Thank you. It was a whimsical place tinged with sadness. The island lost half its population over the past decades. The arts movement here was actually a response to that and a strong desire to not let the place die. 🕉️
That sounds like a fun pilgrimage of its own!
You know… it did feel like I was on the pilgrimage path. And I feel that I am until I reach Koyasan.👣👣