🌸 Noire Henro-san: Walk With The Teacher

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hikoku, Japan. I need to have a look at this place. The smallest of the four main islands in Japan, Shikoku is famous for its looped 88-temple pilgrimage. The pilgrimage was established by the Heian-period Buddhist priest and teacher, Kūkai (Kōbō Daishi). He was a native of present-day Zentsūji-cho in Kagawa prefecture.

Shikoku Pilgrimage (四国遍路)

From Spain, it is on the other side of the planet. Is this the first post of another pilgrimage, this time on the island of Shikoku? On another possible path to know more about myself?

Could I? Would I do it if I knew I could not fail? Let me think. In a word – yes.

I want to visit the 88 Temples that Kūkai (Kōbō Daishi 弘法大師), Grand Master of the Dharma, visited over one thousand years ago.

Wherever you go… go with all your heart.
– Confucius

One’s Destination Is Never A Place, But A New Way Of Seeing Things.

The trek includes 88 “official” temples, 20 shrines, and numerous other sacred sites. It is believed that Kūkai trained here or spent time during the 9th century. The route has been a hub of ascetic Buddhist worship since at least the 12th century,

The Henro Shikoku Pilgrimage is a 1200 km or 720 mile walking route, circumnavigating the entire Shikoku island. Connecting the 88 temples, it is one of Japan’s great ancient walking trails.

The pilgrimage crosses all four provinces or prefectures of Shikoku island. Traditionally it begins in Tokushima prefecture and culminates in Kagawa prefecture. Each is said to symbolize a stage in the journey towards enlightenment.

There is, however, no strict start or stop point, order, or time frame for visiting the temples.

Mount Koya

The start and end point of the Shikoku 88 Temple Pilgrimage is Mount Koya (Koyasan) in Wakayama Prefecture on Honshu, Japan’s largest island. It was settled by Kūkai where it remains the headquarters of Shingon Buddhism.

The most significant sites there are Kongobuji, the head temple of Shingon Buddhism, and Okunoin, the site of Kōbō Daishi’s mausoleum.

My Intention

As a pilgrim or henro-san, my intention is to walk around Shikoku island and visit the 88 temples and, then, cross over to Mount Koya on Honshu island. My wish is to experience the forests, the sea, mountains and other natural surroundings slowly, calmly, and thoughtfully.

As I did during my pilgrimage in Spain, I look forward to being in nature, studying the architecture, eating the food and interacting with the local people.

Henro Mind on Shikoku

What does this mean?

It means that I am inviting you to follow me as I walk 1200 kilometers (720 miles), and possibly more on this ancient Japanese pilgrimage route.

Yes, I plan to keep a diary about my experiences or henro mind – the good, the bad, and everything between. With the camino experience behind me I know there will be smiles and tears. My entire soul will be tested.

There is something else. I will encounter many things that I do not know – in nature, a foreign land and its people.

Alone on this pilgrimage, my worst enemy will be me. My mind will be the front line. But when the “battle” is over, I will know – as I have always known – that I am a good person who seeks and appreciates the truth. The search begins deep within myself…. and that is a difficult place to be.

Korogashi

It is a Japanese word meaning where the pilgrim or henro-san falls down. Of course, it is interpreted with more than one meaning. There is the physical one where the henro-san tumbles down a steep mountain side. The mental one is the failure of will that makes the henro-san turn back, therefore not completing the pilgrimage as they imagined!

Do not despair however, it takes courage to acknowledge our limits.

I am excited, and a little fearful of what I may find, but I’m going. And I know this, I will return to tell the tale!

Shikoku, Japan

When it is time, I will begin my pilgrimage. Then I can say where, precisely, I’ll start…

Baadaye and Mata Ne (またね)

Ohenro-san

Shirley J 👣

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For a convenient and efficient reference for all of the blog posts related to my pilgrimage during the spring of 2024 on Shikoku island in Japan.

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Featured image: Japanese: Onzan-ji Temple, the 18th temple of Shikoku 88 places in Tano-cho, Komatsushima City, Tokushima Prefecture. Statue of Kobo Daishi, by user Naokijp, wikimedia commons CCA-SA4.0, 2019