🌸 Noire Henro-san: Awakening

Tokushima Prefecture

At temple 1 – Ryozenji, I began the Shikoku pilgrimage. There I was introduced to the proper ritual for entering and visiting a Buddhist temple. My first host’s kind guidance from the start was appreciated. I knew what to do now and how to do it. I calmed down a bit, not being as nervous as I thought I might be. From this moment to the end, it is my pilgrimage.

Look for the signs

Walking in the mountains and forests is daunting. There is signage. Just like many things, when a sign is needed it is either hard to find or was missed somewhere along the way.

Do not get me wrong. Signs are adequate, but you still have to pay attention and interpret them with care.

That means to believe what you see. Often, walkers get lost because we want to disregard a sign – for our own reasons – and get turned around. It is something you do not want if you still have to locate your accommodation after a long day on your feet!

I found my way to the next temple.

Temple 2: Gokuraku-ji

Niō, protectors of the temples

Buddhist guardian statues or Niō look out from the temple gates. They reside in or on the temple grounds along the pilgrimage route. Their fierce looks are intimidating but for most Buddhists they are not objects to be feared.

They protect not only the temples but people walking through the gates.

The statues are regarded with affection and warmth as dieties.

Ascending and descending

After passing the Niō at the gate, this is what I found. These stone steps lead up to the main hall. And visiting the hall is required to complete a proper visit to the temple.

The ancient, weather-worn steps are uneven, and disorienting. This is an important lesson on this pilgrimage. Anything is to be expected. It is not going to be easy. And this is a preview of what is to come in this first dojo of Shikoku. Adverse conditions are not only in the woods or on the road. There is a bit of suffering within temple grounds, too.

And coming back down steps can be even more treacherous. They can be slippery with algae and down-sloping which makes it essential to take the steps slowly and carefully.

Even pilgrims who ride – in cars, buses, bikes and motorcycles cannot avoid those steps. Everyone has to “get personal” and climb the temple steps. They act as a visible equalizer on this pilgrimage trek.

Taking care of my feet

It is not surprising that feet are the focus on an endeavor like this. Walking these growing distances and the potential effect on my feet brings up memories from last year’s camino. I did not want to have to deal with bad blisters like I did then. This time I am listening to my body. Also, I won’t push myself (too much) to the limit of my endurance.

This walk will be a slow one and not the sprint I was imagining that it should be… for me. As the weather gets warmer, I don’t want to make it hard on myself or bring on injuries due to my eagerness to get to a temple. If I need to sit or rest, I will. I am not trying to prove a point. That would be useless anyway because the only person I would prove anything to is me.

A shrine to feet

On the way to temple 3, I stopped by an ohenro way station and an unusual shrine hidden in the woods. Don, a volunteer, greeted me with water and snacks. He has been a volunteer on the pilgrimage trail for many years. Helpful tips and stories about the pilgrimage trail were also doled out. Soon after, another ohenro, an American, appeared. She was backtracking through a few early temples after finishing her pilgrimage a few days earlier.

She gave me a bit of encouragement about the Shikoku. Her important advice was to not give up. I was a bit envious that she was finished, having met her on the first day of my own pilgrimage.

The small shrine across the path is dedicated to feet and their protection. I stopped there, of course, for a blessing.

Temple 3: Konsen-ji

I love these vermilion gates. They are like the sun on the ground.

More Niō.

After that, I went on to temple 4, Dainichi-ji.

Temple 4: Dainichi-ji

There are many treasures at the temples. Most are not on display.

These 33 Kannon statues are on display in the hall adjoining the main temple hall.

A close-up:

Pilgrims: Mother and son

I was leaving temple 4, I met a man and woman on the trail coming from the opposite direction. They were headed to the temple, but were eager to talk. I was glad they stopped because I was already feeling the weight of the day on me. It, mostly, had been a solitary walk. And it was a hot day.

They were a son and mother from France.

The son revealed that they were on the pilgrimage trail only for 15 days. He was a high school math teacher on break. His mother wanted to talk with me and asked many questions. Was I alone? Why was I walking?

This would be their last temple for the day. They were stopping their walking day after visiting temple 4 for a little rest and to cool off. Did I say it was a hot day and the sun was beating down on our heads?

She was eager to take a photo with me.

Soon we said good-bye and they went on to the place they were staying for the night.

I walked on to the next temple.

Temple 5: Jizo-ji

The bell tower is usually prominent after entering the temple gate.

You are almost always welcome to ring the bell to announce your arrival.

I walked about 11-1/2 kilometers with my backpack which is still a bit heavier than it should be. Initially, I thought it was a slow start. This was the thought process that brought trouble for me in Spain. I did not want that to happen to me in Japan.

In the heat of the day, my feet were warm. However, I did not feel any hot spots. My feet and I were just tired. Well, it was the first day – a good one.

I believe, upon consideration, that I will be happy with my distance today!

Baadaye and Mata Ne (またね)

Shirley J 👣

•

During the spring of 2024, I began a pilgrimage in Japan where I am walking 1200 kilometers or 720 miles on the Shikoku trail from Temple 1 Ryōzenji to Temple 88 Ōkuboji and beyond. Read my original announcement here.

I am excited, and I am here, still walking. And just know this, I will return to tell the tale!

T2-5