🌸 Noire Henro-San: Every Face on Earth

Five hundred breathtaking images of human expression at Unpen-ji watch over all visitors!

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emple 66, Unpen-ji, has many identities on Shikoku pilgrimage. Although it is counted as being in Kagawa Prefecture, it is actually just across the prefectural border in Tokushima. It is the highest temple on the pilgrimage, at 911 meters.

Temple 66 is a nansho or difficult place that tests the will of pilgrims to complete the pilgrimage as they intended. In addition to that, it is a sacred place – the Sekishi-ji temple or sekishodera of Kagawa.

Today for modern pilgrims, there is a ropeway (cable car). It transports visitors from the foot of the mountain at Kagawa to the temple grounds near the top of the Shikoku Mountains.

A Last look

I loved the view from my hotel room window near Iyo-Mishima. The night before leaving for temple 66, I took a photo of this surreal scene.

Kagawa Prefecture

Kagawa is known as Nehan, the fourth dojo that includes temple 66 to temple 88. It is the last pilgrimage path nearing nirvana.

In search of the Ropeway

The day was very hot. I started out pretty dry. As the sun rose higher, I drank a lot of water and sweat out much of it.

I was drenched by the time I reached the ropeway,

Unpen-ji ropeway operates a regular daily schedule to the temple.

There was a haze hanging about as the cable car climbed above the mountainside.

Did I say that it was a hot day? The temperature dropped by the time I reached the top. However, the air was invigorating and not cold, at all.

After a very short walk from the ropeway, I caught a first glimpse of the statue of Kobo Daishi (Kukai) standing at the entrance.

66 Unpen-Ji

Temple of the Hovering Clouds

The temple was founded by Kukai in his youth.

In the temple grounds are masses of life-sized stone statues of followers of the Buddha. The stone figures, in dignified, comical, fearsome and occupational poses, are an awe inspiring sight.

It is as if I am seeing every face on earth!

Click on video:

Chosokabe Motochika

In the late 16^th century, Chosokabe Motochika of Tosa (Kochi) climbed to Unpen-ji. Inspired by the view he decided to make himself master of the other three provinces (now called prefectures) on Shikoku: Awa (Tokushima), Iyo (Ehime), and Sanuki (Kagawa).

The priest tried to change his mind, but his entreaties were ignored. Chosokabe went on to burn down many temples in his successful bid to conquer and rule over Shikoku island.

Unpen-ji was spared that fate.

The rest of the temple grounds

The spectacular life-size statues are not the only things to contemplate at Unpen-ji temple. The main hall and other temple structures are spread throughout the property.

The main hall and a peek into the treasure room.

The temple fountain for ablutions.

Close up.

Statues are everywhere.

View of the stone steps through the temple gate.

Incense urn.

Mizuko Jizo (Jizo who comforts the souls of dead fetuses or stillborn babies).

The children surrounding the Jizo cling to the hem of its garments.

There are also other statues and carvings of Kannon and Fudo, which are National Treasures.

Resting Buddha is surrounded by more followers on the grounds.

Peace in the clouds

The observation point at the temple is accessible by walking to a higher elevation. Pilgrims and other visitors are rewarded by the spectacular views.

At the observation point, a Japanese woman and two boys came over to me to say hello. One of the boys was eager to speak with me. He asked me where I was from. His brother was a little shy. The mother told me that they wanted to talk with me. She said that Japanese children take English classes in school. They rarely have opportunities to practice speaking the language.

They were very open. Her courageous example of making the first move to reach out and interact with me was charming. I know it was a conscious effort on her part to teach her sons by example. It truly touched my heart.

We took photos on the ridge.

Very nice family! Peace to everyone.✌🏾

Down from the clouds

As I headed down, I felt a strong urge to stay.

I knew already that I would miss being enveloped in the aura of this place with the stone statues with every possible face of humanity.

Now, I am back at the entrance of the temple and on my way to the ropeway.

“Well, are you going to stay?”

I won’t stay. I will, however, carry the feelings in my heart.

See you next time.

Baadaye and Mata Ne

Shirley J 🌸

This and several posts this summer will chronicle my pilgrimage in Japan where I am walking the 1200 kilometer-long Shikoku 88 temple pilgrimage. Read my announcement here.

I am excited, and I am here, still walking. And just know this, I will return to tell the tale!

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