🌸 Noire Henro-san: Planting Seeds

I

am back on the pilgrimage trail! Blessings to all. I was thinking to myself – as I am apt to do on the trail – that some things need to be on replay in our minds. This is one:

Being an adult means being able to take care of yourself when there is nothing or no one to rely on, especially in an emergency. Perseverance and facing fears help. It pays not to panic and know that nothing lasts forever… the good nor the bad.

Here is another:

You may encounter many defeats, but you must not be defeated. In fact, it may be necessary to encounter the defeats, so you can know who you are, what you can rise from, how you can still come out of it.

– Maya Angelou

Gyaku-uchi Henro

Leap years bring a special blessing for pilgrims in Shikoku. That is my blessing in 2024. Completing the pilgrimage in reverse order during a leap year – gyaku-uchi henro – is believed to triple the blessings.

Since I have been in Shikoku, something happens that is encouraging, exciting, and endearing. It is also wounding in a way. Depending on how I feel at the moment, I experience a range of emotions about it.

We are humans… the same in every way. Except some of us are different! In a country like Japan, I am different in a crowd of homogeneous people. I stand out not for anything I do, except exist. Who am I? I am a black woman on a Buddhist pilgrimage trail in a country full of curious people.

It is a help and a hindrance. If I dwell on it too long, it could be draining on my psyche. I try not to let it affect me negatively, this treating me as less than human. The only difference is that I am different in this time and place. And there is always a kind of time and place, no matter who you are. No matter where you are.

The approach

Typically, I’ll be visiting a temple and a person may ask to take a photo with me. The first time it happened, I was surprised, but I quickly determined the reason. The person asking is quite respectful. They are uncertain of my reaction and response. I never refuse. I always say yes. Often the requestor is alone, but our very public interaction is just that – very public and intimate at the same time.

Many are open to me putting my hand on their back. Some respond by putting their arm around me. We end up taking more snaps with our arms around each other. Afterwards, we bow, grasp hands, laugh, and thank each other like members of the family of man humans.

Group Blessings

Temple 14 Joraku-ji

During a rainy day, I arrived at temple 14. You know, I was minding my own business. After my rituals and receipt of my temple stamp, I was approached by two women. They wanted to take a photo… with me. Soon, more people swarmed us. They all wanted to take a group photo… with me. I said yes. Even more of the group came over to join us. Then members of the group wanted individual pictures … with me. It was a lovely moment and brightened my day.

Everyone was happy and laughing. It made me quite happy. One of the men approached me with osettai or gifts of sweets, a small canvas bag with Kukai’s image on it, and even money. I tried to refuse; I really did, but the group insisted. They took numerous photos, still smiling, laughing, thanking and hugging me profusely.

I spoke with some of the group and found out that they were from Taiwan. They were on a bus tour of Shikoku, but were visiting the temples in reverse, having begun their trip at temple 88. The trip by bus would take ten days. Soon, the call was made by the group leader to head to the bus. They said goodbye to me and headed toward the temple gates to bow and bask in the numerous blessings of their special pilgrimage.

Like a whirlwind, they were gone, on to the next temple.

My Thoughts

I knew I could feel about the moment one of two ways – as a spectacle or a blessing. This was not the first time that I have encountered this so I accept that it may happen. Simply, I am a black woman on a journey of peace. That is, a continuous journey meant to leave footprints on this wondrous land. And to exchange blessings with the people I meet.

Note: I did not take photos of this “sudden” interaction. I simply remained in the moment – present – and enjoyed my time with the group.

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Baadaye, Mata Ne, and Blessings 祝福

Shirley J 🌸

During the spring of 2024, I began a pilgrimage in Japan where I am walking 1200 kilometers or 720 miles on the Shikoku trail from Temple 1 Ryōzenji to Temple 88 Ōkuboji and beyond. Read my original announcement here.

I am excited, and I am here, still walking. And just know this, I will return to tell the tale!

T14