đź‘Ł Noire Pilgrim: AlmerĂ­a

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The Beginning.

Distance is easy. The first step is hard.

AlmerĂ­a on the south coast of Spain is where I took my first, hard step. I needed two short days to recuperate from jet lag and the saga of that “missing plane” to get here.

I stayed at a very nice boutique hotel in the central part of the city. How did I get there from the airport? My favorite way of course – public transportation.

Just arriving at Almeria airport in Spain.
At the bus stand at the airport after landing in AlmerĂ­a.

Instead of a taxi, I took the local bus that landed me a short walking distance from my hotel in the central city. The fare was only €1.05.

It was a nice way to continue with my public transportation experiment in cities to which I travel.

A little history of AlmerĂ­a

AlmerĂ­a is a bustling capital city in Andalusia on the southeastern coast of Iberia or Spain. It is the capital of AlmerĂ­a province. The city is directly on the Mediterranean sea.

It has been home to different civilisations throughout its history. My pilgrimage on the camino Mozárabe snakes through many of these archaeological remains scattered all over Andalusia.

Phoenicians, Carthaginians and Greeks exploited its mines and traded up and down its coast. The Romans, who settled here in the 3rd century B.C., transformed it into “Porto Magnus” on the Mediterranean and stayed until the arrival of the Visigoths in the 7th century.

Caliph Abd al-Rahman founded the city in 955. The city or medina grew wealthy during the Islamic era, becoming the most important taifa or kingdom in Muslim Spain. AlmerĂ­a enjoyed an active port that traded silk, oil and raisins.

The Arab influence was the most significant, as they remained in Spain for almost eight centuries.

Castles and fortresses provide an historic testimony for understanding the interactions of all these different cultures from the past.

La Rambla in Almeria.
La Rambla, Avenide de Frederico Garcia Lorca leads to the beaches.
The ferris wheel at the end of La Rambla in Almeria, Spain.

The big city feel of AlmerĂ­a is a calming prelude to the long walk I was about to take.

Public art in Almeria.

Public art in the promenade in central AlmerĂ­a provides a hint of art treasures all over Spain.

A colorful lighted fountain on the La Rambla promenade.
A colorful lighted fountain in AlmerĂ­a at night.

The Alcazaba

The entrance to the Alcazaba complex in Almeria, Spain.
The entrance to the citadel or Alcazaba.

Overlooking the sea, the defensive citadel of Alcazaba is located in the upper sector of the city. The Caliph began building the structure immediately after taking over.

A view overlooking the city of Almeria, Spain out to the Mediterranean Sea.

The walled complex of towers, squares, houses, and a mosque was the seat of the local government, commanding the city and the nearby sea.

Another view from the Alcazaba complex over the city of Almeria.
A view from the Alcazaba overlooking the coast of AlmerĂ­a toward the Mediterranean Sea.
A view of the bell tower.
An interior garden at the Alcazaba complex.
Shirley J at Alcazaba complex.

Being adjacent to a small desert, AlmerĂ­a has an exceptionally dry climate. Innovative and clever management and conservation techniques were necessary in past centuries.

Water fountain at Alcazaba complex.
Water storage and delivery systems were important inside the structure.

Interior water reservoir at Alcazaba complex in Almeria, Spain.
Water retention pond inside the Alcazaba complex.

View of Mediterranean Sea from an interior terrace of the Alcazaba complex in Almeria Spain.
A view of the Mediterranean Sea from a defense terrace.

The cathedral in AlmerĂ­a

The Cathedral in AlmerĂ­a

View of Almeria Cathedral.

The Cathedral was built both as a place of worship and to defend the city from attacks by Berber pirates.

Another view of Almeria Cathedral.

It was built in Gothic and Renaissance architectural styles from 1524 to 1562.

Front view of Almeria Cathedral in Spain.
The front entrance of the Cathedral.

Interior of Almeria Cathedral.
Exterior walkway of Almeria Cathedral in Spain.

Shirley J in front of Almeria Cathedral.
I’m ready.

Simple pleasures

Ice cream dessert.
Ice cream on a hot day.

The walk out of AlmerĂ­a to Spain

It is time now to start my pilgrimage. After filling my backpack, I stepped out of my cozy hotel. From this point on, I will be sleeping in shelters or albergues at the end of each walking stage.

Map and sticker showing Almeria, Spain.

The first yellow arrow or flecha amarilla.

Almeria, Spain street shot.
Can you see the yellow arrow on the wall of the building ahead?

What are these arrows or flechas? The flechas are important guides for the pilgrim on the path toward Santiago de Compostela. They are everywhere and nowhere. Attention must be paid to find and read them correctly.

First yellow arrow leading to the camino Mozárabe.
Here it is – close up.

Following the yellow arrows with a keen eye…

Yellow arrow marker.

… I’m on my way to Santiago!

Path leading to the Camino Mozarabe.

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Baadaye and Buen Camino

Shirley J ♥️

This and several posts this summer will chronicle my pilgrimage in Spain where I will walk the 1400 kilometer-long camino Mozárabe. Read my announcement here.

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