👣 Noire Pilgrim: Spain

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Flying to Spain

I arrived at the airport in my hometown four hours early as advised. Wouldn’t you know, my check-in and TSA inspection took less than 45 minutes after my arrival. Murphy’s Law, I always say.

It was time for takeoff to Spain. Soon, we began the nine hour odessey to Madrid. The flight was full but we managed to eat, sleep, and use the facilities without incident.

Getting to Almeria was a bit tricky. After a planned layover of five hours (to hedge against arriving late and for a better fare), an announcement was made that we had “no plane”. Oh! I thought to myself, I could have taken a train. As soon as that lamented plan was processed in my head for the 10th time, a plane was found. We boarded and were on our way to the little sophisticated town of Almeria.

Almeria is a small town on the southern coast of Spain. It is full of beaches, history, and people who work hard, play hard, and rest well.

My Take on Spain

Spain was a world power whose force was in the seas. The time during the 16th and 17th centuries brought riches, culture and knowledge to the country. It also was a major colonizer and slave trading nation. The centuries that followed include the country’s decision not to participate in both world wars, devastation from civil war and dictatorship, economic recession and strong political independence and civic movements regarding employment.

Spain’s government structure is a parliamentary constitutional monarchy. There is a hereditary king or chief of state. His daughter is the current heir apparent. There is a head of government, proposed by the king, then “elected” by congress. The current vice-president is a woman. Also, there is a cabinet and elective offices.

Spain is an impressive country. It has mountains and the sea. Agriculture is on a scale that I never knew. The country is characterized as the grocer to Europe and is the EU’s fourth largest economy.

The country grows grapes for wine, wheat for cereal,…

olives, almonds,…

and oranges and other fruits.

There is cheese, world famous jamón or ham, beef, seafood, and chocolate. The offerings are amazingly varied and good!

Design and Food

In ancient and modern times, design has been thoughtfully unapologetic. Great artists, architects, writers, poets, and thinkers were born in Spain.

Spaces (including caves in mountains) and material are formed or transformed to be beautiful and efficient. Home or business, it does not matter. Sports, including soccer, tennis, racing, and bullfighting (still) are a national obsession in Spain.

Eating good food is also a favorite pastime everywhere in Spain. That includes tapas. You order a drink and it comes with a portion of food. It can be anything from tortillas (egg and potato pie) or bite-sized portions of octopus. That drink does not have to be an alcoholic beverage!

Then this,

And finally,

In one delicious meal!

Adding it up

The population of Spain is 46.8 million which is 0.6% of the world’s population. It ranks 30th on the list of countries by population. Total land area is almost 500 thousand sq. km or nearly 193 thousand square miles.

Unbelievably, 80 percent of the people who live in Spain live in urban areas around the outer borders. The median age is 45. It seems that nobody wants to live on the farm anymore!

The country appears to be prosperous overall. Domestic and foreign investments are evident all over the country.

Measures have been implemented to conserve resources and protect nature.

Environmental efforts include recycling, wind farming, capturing water run-off from the mountains, and innovative product packaging. Many technological projects and processes appear to be reinventions of pre- and ancient Roman and Muslim achievements.

Bridges and roads were used in Spain for hundreds of years. Ironically, many of the roads are built alongside ancient paths. I will follow many on my pilgrimage.

Spain: the good and bad

I cannot speak Spanish, Basque, Castilian, Arab, Turkish or any of the many languages spoken here… very well. I wish I knew enough words to establish a better bond with the people that I encounter. It has, however, been fun to communicate with so many people, comfortable using what we can – hand gestures, facial expressions, literal English and old fashioned english (you sports buffs know) and made up words and even slang – to work out issues.

There have been others that are quickly dismissive and want nothing to do with someone who cannot speak the language. I realize a lot of it stems from my paltry knowledge. A smile apparently does not always get you by! It is disheartening for a moment, but I have to move on to the next person or the next until I find someone. Often, I find a good soul who is willing to be as vulnerable as I am to overcome the fear of not knowing the right word or expression. Soon we work it out. Then there is a sweeping gesture pointing me in the right direction. Or they point and say with a smile “directo, directo” and of course, “buen camino”.

Some had such big hearts and personalities and extended a hand of help and understanding that is overwhelming. It warms my heart and shows me that there is still love and good in the world. As a result, I am learning to be a gracious receiver and a better giver to those I meet.

The meaning of it all

Spain – the country – is rooted in religion, achievement, violence and conquest, rebellion, history and tradition. It has other problems – immigration, disposal of waste, and domestic abuse – for which the rest of the world too is seeking solutions.

It is now looked upon as a champion of freedom and human rights. More thorough work needs to be done in these areas, surely, but the issues are being addressed.

I have been welcomed warmly by native Spaniards, expats (I met a few!), and the camino association members based here. The hosts and hospitaleros and my fellow peregrinos of all nationalities have been the best things that happened to me so far.

Starting out on this long pilgrimage has reminded me that I am not alone in this world – unless I chose to be. Even then, it is hard to escape the care that someone offers me. I appreciate and am grateful to everyone I have met, so far. Each encounter was exactly what or who I needed at the time. It is quite thought-provoking and emotional. Muchas gracias… to everyone.

This is the Spain through which I will walk – on the Camino Mozárabe – from the south to the north toward the town of Santiago de Compostela.

I look forward to seeing more and feeling more in my heart each day that I walk the Way.

Baadaye and Buen Camino

Shirley J ♥️

This and several posts this summer will chronicle my pilgrimage in Spain where I will walk the 1400 kilometer-long camino Mozárabe. Read my announcement here.