I
t needs a summer of love, of course. But you cannot give what you don’t have or maybe never had.
As time goes on, youâll understand. What lasts, lasts; what doesnât, doesnât. Time solves most things. And what time canât solve, you have to solve yourself.
love listening
At the guesthouse, the topic dominating much of the evening’s conversation was how to traverse the ever increasing distances between temples.
To get from Temple 35 Kiyotakiji to Usa and 36 Shoryuji was 15 kilometers. Done.
Remainder of Kochi prefecture
- Now, temple 36 Shoryuji to 37 Iwamotoji is 55 km.
- From temple 37 Iwamotoji to 38 Kongofukuji is 86 km. This is the longest stretch between temples on the Shikoku 88 pilgrimage.
- From temple 38 Kongofukuji to 39 Enkoji is 56 km.
That would mark the end of the Kochi prefecture dojo.
The guesthouse host offered us a few helpful tips for getting from Usa to temple 37. I am sure she has done this a hundred times, maybe more.
I listened intently.
Before I went to bed, she gave me a big tip: instructions for a bus and train to get within a 10 minute walk to the temple gate. Rain was forecast for the day.
Solving problems
I slept on the idea, ultimately deciding that I would do it.
In the morning, my helpful host told me that the young man from Osaka generously offered to give me a lift to JR Ino train station. That would save me the hour long ride on the bus to the train station and another hour waiting for the train.
At that moment, I realized she had been working behind the scenes to help me cross those remaining great distances. I accepted the offer. We hugged and I thanked her for everything.
I relaxed and had a little food to eat before leaving the guesthouse. More hugs.
I will not forget my host’s lovingkindness nor her real love for Ella Fitzgerald!
On the Road, Literally
My generous friend and I had an interesting conversation about many subjects. It took about a half hour to get to the train station. I expressed appreciation for the ride. He confessed that he was practicing speaking English with me. I told him that I suspected that he was. Most Japanese people are too shy and do not feel brave enough to pursue such a thing. It was too bad I could not do the same.
Finally, we reached JR Ino Station. I got my things out of the car and thanked him again. He continued on toward Osaka. I went inside the station and bought my ticket. Soon the train arrived and I was on my way toward Kubokawa Station.
The train trip took 52 minutes. I got off at Kubokawa Station and turned toward temple 37.
Walk with me.
37 Iwamoto-ji
Temple of the Rocky Roots
When you get to the main temple hall. look up at the art on the ceiling!
Temple 37 was built around 729~749. When it was refurbished in 1978, the ceiling was covered with 575 painted panels donated by artists from all over Japan and local people.
Totally unexpected in a temple, the examples of traditional images of nature, the Buddha, and contemporary subjects is a treat.
There is other colorful “pop” art all around the grounds.
There definitely is an 1960s counterculture or Haight-Asbury vibe about the place!
The chunky NiĹ guardians are not to be missed at the gate. Their chalk-like appearances contrast the colorful panels, tiles, “posters” and whimsical animal statues all around the temple.
An unusual circular building, Seitan Hall, dedicated to the Goddess of Joy, stands in the middle of temple grounds.
The temple has a shukubo or sleeping accommodations for pilgrims.
I already reserved a place to stay, so I moved on.
It’s still raining, a disorderly rain trying to do its wet work underneath my umbrella.
A dry port in the storm
But I made it to my accommodation, a small motor hotel.
When I arrived, I was soaked to the bone! The check in desk was closed. I had to wait in the lobby until the rooms were cleaned. As soon as one was available, it was given to me.
The room was nice and cozy with a tatami mat floor (no shoes allowed). I took a shower, washed and dried my clothes.
I even went out and found a nice place to buy supper and snacks for my backpack.
Today, I am truly grateful for the love and help from all my friends.
See you next time.
Baadaye and Mata Ne (ăžăă)
Shirley J âĽď¸
During the spring of 2024, I began a pilgrimage in Japan where I am walking 1200 kilometers or 720 miles on the Shikoku trail from Temple 1 RyĹzenji to Temple 88 Ĺkuboji and beyond. Read my original announcement here.
I am excited, and I am here, still walking. And just know this, I will return to tell the tale!
