🌸 Noire Henro-San: Golden Week Pt 7, Bridge of Dreams

S

alty air. The ocean. Sea birds, Shimmering water, blue skies, and dreams. Above me, Before me. All around me.

There’s an ancient saying in Japan, that life is like walking from one side of infinite darkness to another, on a bridge of dreams. They say that we’re all crossing the bridge of dreams together. That there’s nothing more than that. Just us, on the bridge of dreams. – Matthew Tobin Anderson

Walk with me.

36 Shoryu-Ji

Temple of the Green Dragon

Shōryū-ji is temple No. 36 on Shikoku 88. It stands near the tip of the Yokonami Peninsula which juts out into the Pacific Ocean. The peninsula is parallel to the shore of Tosa city, creating a deep inlet called Uranouchi Bay.

Until 1973, pilgrims had to take a ferry across the mouth of the inlet. Now, the Usano Ohashi Bridge makes the short crossing easier by car, bus, truck, and walking henros. Imagine how many dreams were fulfilled by that!

If I could avoid carrying my backpack across that bridge, I would. The weather was hot with no shade. I discovered that my accommodation was nearby. I walked past the bridge to the guesthouse. The plan was to leave my things there and backtrack to the bridge. I arrived hours before check in time. I knew that beforehand. Usually, ohenros can leave their things, continue on the trail to a temple or two, and return. My host was not home, so I dropped my backpack on a bench by the door, left a note and set off for temple 36.

Crossing the Bridge

I returned to the entry of the bridge and began the walk to the other side of the bay to the temple.

At first, I was not certain if I could enter the bridge walkway. Soon, I saw bicyclists and people walking back and forth on the bridge, not many, but enough to encourage me to walk it. It is engineered thoughtfully for people and vehicles to cross without fear of accidents. Of course, you have to stay in the designated lanes.

The clear, blue sky was beautiful and provided a soothing respite from the dark clouds just days before.

The landscape reminds me of Hawaiian dreams.

Finally, the bridge ends and runs into the road that continues onto the peninsula.

In the valley

Soon the typical pilgrimage trail terrain appeared.

The temple is hidden in a valley recessed from the coastline of the peninsula.

Temples are not immune from the fury of tsunamis and ocean storms. The location of temple 36, in a valley at the tip of the peninsula jutting into the ocean, means it is most vulnerable. Many years ago, it was destroyed by a tsunami, but was quickly rebuilt by wealthy patrons.

A road, lined with small Buddhist statues, meandered into the valley.

At the bottom of the valley is a small two story red and white pagoda behind which is a large hall, which appears to be the main part of the temple.

But to the right, is a much larger three story red pagoda.

Next to it is the main gate with a steep flight of stone steps leading up to the main hall and Daishi Hall.

Temple structures are tightly situated on the grounds.

Protector of the Faith

The main statue is of Namikiri Fudō, an angry faced but well-meaning deity who holds ropes to bind people to good. His looks are meant to frighten people into following the teachings of the Dainichi Buddha and thus Japanese Buddhism.

He is a protector of Dharma, the virtues and personal behaviors considered righteous in Buddhism and other religions.

Temple 36 is on the tip of the peninsula. That makes it a round trip temple, as I call it. I had to retrace my steps and return the same way I came.

Yokonami Prefectural Natural Park is right on the beach with Uranouchi Bay on the north side and a Pacific Ocean view on the south. There are beach spots that invite people to sit and enjoy the area. This morning, there were people on the beaches surfing, paragliding, pier fishing, and just sunning.

Now that it is suppertime, the beaches are empty.

The waters from the ocean came to shore and receded with all my worries. I took off my shoes, hakui (white jacket) and wagesa (purple stole) and rested on the beach for an hour before returning to the guesthouse.

Click on video:

In the video, I said temple 37. I meant to say temple 36! It must be that hot sun wreaking havoc on my brain.

Here is a bonus video to make up for that:

Back on the Bridge

Finally, I headed back to the guesthouse by walking across the bridge.

Dream a Little Dream

My booked stay was at a nice house in Usa after my visit to temple 36. My backpack was on the bench, right where I left it, I went in and did the usual ohenro thing… registered with my passport, paid for my stay, and got acquainted with the house rules. My host was a very friendly and helpful woman.

I noticed that the music playing was soft and soulful. At first it was a one off, but I heard another and another. It sounded familiar now. The mood was wonderfully jazzy. I remarked that I believe that was Ella Fitzgerald. My host confirmed that it was. Then she said that Ella was her favorite singer. We talked awhile about her and I mentioned the live album Ms Fitzgerald recorded in Japan. Her face lit up. What a way to connect!

The music was piped throughout the first floor. This woman was serious about her music!

The house was fully booked. There were two ohenro from Germany. One was injured. Much of the conversation revolved around his plans to visit a spa further north on the trail for treatment. There was a young couple and another young man on holiday from Osaka.

Do good things

To do good things in the world, first you must know who you are and what gives meaning to your life.

See you next time.

Baadaye and Mata Ne (またね)

Shirley J 🌸

Listen:

Ella Fitzgerald, Chelsea Bridge, with Duke Ellington Band, written, arranged, and accompanied by Billy Strayhorn on piano.

** Ella in Japan ‘S Wonderful (recorded live in 1964).

During the spring of 2024, I began a pilgrimage in Japan where I am walking 1200 kilometers or 720 miles on the Shikoku trail from Temple 1 Ryōzenji to Temple 88 Ōkuboji and beyond. Read my original announcement here.

I am excited, and I am here, still walking. And just know this, I will return to tell the tale!