🌸 Noire Henro-san: Out of Tokushima

I can’t fall down with my feet up at a resting spot near temple 11 on Shikoku 88 above Tokushima prefecture in Japan.

Continuing on the trail

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here is the path and then there are offshoots and alternatives. The “official” Shikoku route puts an ohenro on the one that Kukai walked on his quest around the island. His purpose was to find a permanent location for the head Shingon Buddhist temple.

Other routes lead to historical sites, shrines, observatories, natural phenomena such as water falls, canyons, abandoned towns, and resting spots. If time allows, these sites provide even more depth to the walking pilgrim’s understanding of Shikoku.

The view from this part of the trail is majestically sublime.

Osettai

Earlier on the trail, I received this Japanese orange from another ohenro-san. He bought a bag of them and gave one to me. He dropped it in my hand and said, “osettai.” I stopped at this observation spot near temple 11 to eat it.

Love in action

While I was sitting and eating, another ohenro came by. He stopped and sat with me for a while. I shared my orange with him. The young man was from Kyoto. Our conversation included why we were walking. He told me that he was continuing the walk that he began last year. Heavy rains prevented him from completing his purpose on Shikoku. What was it? He was “memorializing” his pet that died a few years ago.

I asked him if it was ok for me to ask a question about that. He gracefully said yes. I wanted to know if he carried the ashes of his pet. He reached inside his shirt and pulled out a chain with a tiny container filled with ashes. I am not a pet owner, but I do have compassion for those that lose one that they loved and spent a lot of time with. I am aware that people treasure their pets. Many are heartbroken when the animal dies.

I recalled how my mother lost her beloved dog, Sable. We still don’t know if Sable was stolen or escaped from the yard. My mother was inconsolable for a long time. I don’t know if she truly recovered to the day she died.

After a while, my friend from Kyoto moved on toward temple 11. I wanted to give him a little space so I waited a few minutes before getting back on the trail.

The young man disappeared into the forest. Again I was alone.

Did I say it was hot? It was.

Don’t Fall Down on the Steps

There are many “opportunities” to fall down on steps, slippery inclines and descents on hills and mountains. I try to be careful to slow down and tread carefully.

Temple 11 Fujii-dera

A fall down a mountain

I noted the time and realized that I needed to hurry if I wanted to get to temple 12 before the office closed!

Korogashi is a Japanese word meaning where the pilgrim or henro-san falls down. I mentioned before that it is interpreted with more than one meaning. Here near temple 12 especially, it is where the henro-san tumbles or falls down a steep mountain side. It also means the failure of will that makes the henro-san turn back, therefore not completing the pilgrimage as they imagined!

I did not escape fate. I met my moment of korogashi before temple 12. What does that mean? It means I did fall down a narrow mountain side.

Of course, haste in this instance, made for the fall down the path. On my knee I fell and slid on a narrow downhill path. I tried to soften the inevitable impact. How? I strained to keep my head up and prevent bumping it or knocking myself out. My shoulder acted as a brake and stopped me by bumping an embankment. Both my shoulder and right arm were hurt but not broken, thankfully.

Checking for injuries, my knee was bloodied but luckily, I had no broken bones as a result of this fall down the path. I had one bandage which I strategically placed across the biggest “bleeder”.

My white coat was dirty with the reddish damp mud from the trail. Fortunately it was not torn.

Odd thoughts flashed in my head. Many older people die due to falls in their own homes, let alone on a mountain trail. The likely scenario was that I would fall down on the steep steps leading to a temple hall. Not on the trail. I thought to myself, I did fall down, but I am not going out like that. Yes, I said it over and over. I was shaken, but eventually calmed myself and did not panic.

Decision time

I sat on the path for ten minutes checking every inch of my body. If there were no serious injuries, I would continue.

Not one soul showed up on the trail. I certainly escaped that embarrassment.

Finally, I was able to straighten myself up and get back on the walking path. My knee was hurting but I was determined to get to temple 12.

In the distance, the temple bells rang. Loudly. Closing time. And the temple was deserted when I arrived. It was late and I was nowhere near the ryokan where I would be staying for the night. All I could do was sit on a bench on the grounds and think about my next move.

Unexpectedly, a temple worker came out of one of the temple buildings. I asked her if she could call my ryokan to see if they could pick me up from temple! She knew the place and went back inside to call them while I rested on an outside bench.

When she returned, she said that she would drive me. I was surprised but appreciative. Sympathetically, she told me that I had to come back tomorrow to get the stamp for my book. That made me laugh! When we arrived it was getting dark. My hosts were waiting for me.

My room was ready. I had a good night cleaning up, sewing my leggings, and recovering as best I could. By the way – kneeling and getting in and out of a futon on a tatami floor in this state is really painful. I knew that I would have to deal with that reality for many more days.

Still on the trail

The next morning, I decided to go back to temple 12 for a proper visit and get my stamp. I felt well and able enough to continue.

Return to temple 12 Shosan-ji

My host kindly gave me a ride back to the temple. I was there before it opened for the day. The grounds were quiet and serene.

I received my stamp at the temple office. Surely this one will have a special place in my heart!

This cute couple from Italy arrived at the temple shortly after I did. Ironically, they stayed at the same ryokan that I did the night before. The two would be staying overnight at this temple. They made their reservation many weeks before and were very excited.

On the way to temple 13 Dainichi-ji

At this marker, I had 14 kilometers more to walk. After my visit to the temple, I will walk to where I am staying for this night.

There were not many people at the temples I visited today. It was peaceful.

The gate entrance to this temple is right on the street!

I took this photo from across the road!

A daily task for most walkers

Each day, an important task is finding a place to stay for the night. It is difficult to project where I may be at the end of the day.

My typical email explains that I am a solo female henro-san on Shikoku 88. I write that I would like to stay at their establishment for a day or two for said dates. My plan was to stay for two nights in order to visit four temples.

Later in the afternoon, I received a reply that a room was available.

All I needed was to get there.

Now, this will be my “base” for the next two nights while visiting a few temples ahead. Hopefully, I will not fall down again.

All is well as it can be.

See you next time.

Baadaye and Mata Ne

Shirley J 🌸

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During the spring of 2024, I began a pilgrimage in Japan where I am walking 1200 kilometers or 720 miles on the Shikoku trail from Temple 1 Ryōzenji to Temple 88 Ōkuboji and beyond. Read my original announcement here.

I am excited, and I am here, still walking. And just know this, I will return to tell the tale!

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