As I got closer to temple 60, well-meaning people, Japanese ohenro friends and locals, took time to pass information to me. They repeated two things, a lot. One, it is a sekishodera or barrier temple. Thus, it is the spiritual checkpoint where Kobo Daishi determines that a pilgrim or ohenro is pure of heart. Second, the hike or walk is known to be tough with beautiful views and steep climbs.
Henros, always, must remain aware of korogashi where it is easy to slip and fall down. They did not have to pass that bit of knowledge to me. I’d already experienced that.
The temple grounds are located on the northern part of the mountain at 750 meters. It is the third highest point in the Shikoku Pilgrimage.
The temple has a long history with Shugendo (mountain ascetic Buddhism). It is set beautifully in the foothills of the sacred mountain, Ishizuchi.
During the last post, I followed the route guidance provided at temple 59 for the best way to get to temple 60. Between the two, I visited temples 61, 62, 63, and 64.
After visiting temple 64, I returned to my accommodation in Saijo to rest before setting out the next morning for temple 60.
A slightly bumpy ride
A paved road up the mountain was completed in 1954, so pilgrims can ride a bus to a parking lot which is about a 10 minute walk from the temple.
I chose to ride up the pass on the bus. Actually, two buses, one from town and a smaller independent bus in the mountains are required. The trip is tricky to coordinate and a little complicated. It reminded me of a stagecoach chase in a movie.
Imagine racing a horse for 30 miles to catch the only stagecoach for the day out of a way station in the wild west
Add a surly driver and road crews clearing debris from a landslide caused by an earth tremor hours before. Also, keep in mind the time and consequences while walking to and visiting the temple if you miss any step in the return trip.
Don’t get left behind.
It is a long ride but very scenic.
The bus stopped at a tollbooth halfway up the mountain to T60. Walking pilgrims pass through for free.
The bus finally reached the offloading point. Everybody got off and wasted no time racing walking to the temple.
Come on.
60 Yokomine-ji
Temple on the Side of the Ridge
It was a hot day but I felt a bit of cool air in the mountain forest.
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Signs point the way to the temple.
We pass by a field of torii gates that lead further into the forest.
Closer…
And a slight turn around the corner.
After all the talk about this place, I am taken aback by the small temple grounds. It takes a minute to appreciate that this sacred place could exist here and that I am here, too.
Daishido.
The main hall is compact. It is very quiet and peaceful in the mountains.
The bell tower.
Stones steps lead even higher on this ridge.
The fountain.
The temple buildings meld with the sky.
Statue of Hoshiku Daishi holding a sword in one and a book in the other.
Another beautiful view of the sky.
Going back
After getting the goshuin for my stamp book, it is time to literally backtrack out of the temple grounds.
I don’t think a pilgrim can pass by of these signs and not feel reassured that they are walking in the right direction.
We pass each other again
Another surprise! It is my ohenro friend (without his serenading father). He arrived and was making his way to the temple just when I was leaving.
We passed these signs coming up.
They reassure us that we are on the right path to get of the mountain.
The views from the bus are breathtaking.
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Back in Saijo
My room was in a short rise hotel. To pass the time, I stood by the window observing the town and mountain views. Also, the comings and goings of trains from the nearby station were exciting to watch.
The railway History Park and train museum was a few steps from the hotel.
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Later at night, a view from my window.
See you next time at temple 65.
Baadaye and Mata Ne
Shirley J ♥️
This and several posts this summer will chronicle my pilgrimage in Japan where I am walking the 1200 kilometer-long Shikoku 88 temple pilgrimage. Read my announcement here.
I am excited, and I am here, still walking. And just know this, I will return to tell the tale!
T60
2 thoughts on “🌸 Noire Henro-San: You Shall Pass Temple 60”
So two sekishoderas almost in a row the way you are doing the walk, 60 and 66, correct? Glad you passed this one and hopefully here will be no backsliding before #66. 😉
Almost. Next up is T65 before T66. Sekishoderas on Shikoku pilgrimage are numbered as they are for each prefecture. Taking the last few temples out of order did not help, I agree, but almost every one presents its own spiritual challenge. 🌸 👣 🕉️