🌸 Noire Henro-San: High In The Sky

Approaching the gate at Temple 21 on Shikoku 88.

W

hile I am thinking about Golden Week, my goal is to finally exit Tokushima prefecture. I am getting close to the end of my journey through this first dojo. Three more temples to go until I reach the second dojo or prefecture of Kochi. I am still in Tokushima, however, and it is the awakening it is claimed to be!

Just when the thought crossed my mind that the trek was going to be easy in the very first prefecture, I had to accept that not one kilometer will be… easy.

I made it to temple 21. Guess what? This one isn’t easy either. However, there is a pleasant ending.

Walk with me.

Temple 21 Tairyu-ji

Nicknamed “Western Koya-san”, Tairyuji temple is over 600 meters above sea level in the mountains. It is a hot, arduous walk up that mountain.

A ropeway leading to the temple was built to bring visitors to the summit or mountain top, but the distance can be walked. I walked up the trail but I am thinking about riding the ropeway down to the base of the mountain. After the ride, I will rejoin the pilgrimage trail from there.

First things first, of course. I did my ablutions at the fountain, climbed more steps to reach the main hall and other temple buildings, got my stamp, and rested a bit on a bench.

The temple grounds are open and airy.

And the buildings are thoughtfully arranged.

Again, steps lead higher up the mountain to the main temple buildings.

Higher…

… and higher!

Still, it is peaceful here. I can think for a few moments before moving on.

These decorative eaves and rafters always catch my eye.

Benches are strategically placed on the grounds. These are inviting and plentiful.

This treat is not found at every temple.

Opportunity Lost or Found

The opportunity to experience something different occasionally pops up on the trail. Riding the ropeway to the bottom of the mountain is one. I wanted to take the ropeway for the experience and as a break from all the walking I did today to get here.

Ohenros have a difficult time deviating from the path. For some, not walking all the time, all the way is interpreted as somehow disobeying Kukai or Kōbō Daishi. Others feel that it violates the “rules” of the pilgrimage. The question becomes, “What would Kōbō Daishi do?”

The answer, which they themselves provide, is he would walk all the time, all the way with no exceptions. It is almost always laden with suffering and even filled with fear. They feel that they will be judged for their choice.

I am not certain of that. However, every pilgrim has to answer that question on their own.

Me? I am riding the ropeway!

Moving Ropeway Views

I entered the ropeway office to purchase a one-way ticket from the summit. Once at the base of the mountain, I will continue my pilgrimage walk to temple 22.

The ride on the ropeway was awe inspiring. Thankfully, I am not afraid of heights. The view of the mountains, countryside, and town below was impressive.

I am happy that I did not miss this.

The ropeway is Japan’s longest. The 2,775 meter trip down takes 10 minutes. On the way we met and passed another ropeway car going up.

Click on the video:

Seeing it from the ropeway helps me appreciate the vastness of the countryside.

Another moving view of the mountains of Shikoku pilgrimage.

Click on the video:

Nice ride.

See you next time at temples 22 and 23.

Baadaye and Mata ne

Shirley J 🌸

During the spring of 2024, I began a pilgrimage in Japan where I am walking 1200 kilometers or 720 miles on the Shikoku trail from Temple 1 Ryōzenji to Temple 88 Ōkuboji and beyond. Read my original announcement here.

I am excited, and I am here, still walking. And just know this, I will return to tell the tale!