🌸 Noire Henro-san: Healing Temple

Temple 23: The Healing Temple

Time heals a wound or two. After that fall before temple 12, I got up and got on. I resumed my pilgrimage walk. For that, I am grateful. From time to time my right arm falls weak unexpectedly. I have to take care when placing it through my backpack strap. Otherwise, it reacts like an agitated funny bone.

My knee is getting better. It looks better too. I am grateful that I am not limping and my gait has not changed.

My knee after a couple of weeks of healing and walking. It’s better… really!

Walk with me.

Sign pointing to temple 23 on Shikoku.
Follow the sign to temple 23!

Pilgrimage trail following road through a mountain tunnel.
Bamboo tree forest.

This ohenro lookalike sign points to the WC (toilets) at a school.

Temple 23 stands in the mountains at the southernmost point of Tokushima. The Pacific ocean and beaches are at our feet on the trail.

The sight and sounds of the breaking waves are calming.

The salty and fishy smells wafting out of the water stimulate my brain.

On the trail is a sign pointing to an observation point straight ahead and temple 23 to the right.

Sign pointing to observatory on the way to temple 23.

A Japanese ohenro who I met on the way said I should climb the mountain to the observation point. Having previously completed a pilgrimage, he knew what was going to unfold. We walked together till we got to the top.

A view of the Pacific Ocean.

This was a wonderful discovery! I was happy that I listened to my ohenro friend. We marveled at this spectacular scene.

We also took this time to eat some food and drink our water.

An ohenro from Argentina shared umezuke or sour pickled plums with us before moving on.

Then I played on the swing, yes, a swing!

Click on the video:

Two more pilgrims passed through the observation point. Then we rejoined the trail and walked to the temple mountain. As we approached, the temple’s red color stood out from the green of the trees.

Temple 23 pagoda overlooking a fishing town.
Temple 23 overlooks the fishing town of Hiwasa.

Shortly before we reached the temple gates, the weather began to change. Storm clouds were approaching.

Rainy weather loomed, so I hurried on to complete my visit to the main hall. Of course, I made sure to get my stamp at the temple office.

Japanese people visit the temple to pray for protection in unlucky or calamitous years. There are many variations but age 42 for men and age 33 for women are considered unlucky. Age 61 – retirement age – is lucky or unlucky.

The temple is also dedicated to the safety of sailors and their ships.

Temple 23 gate.
Temple 23 gate.
Closer view of temple 23 gate.

More steps!

The first set of steps number 42 for men, then a set of 33 steps are for women and, lastly, 61 steps to the main hall and pagoda provide protection. Also, prayers are recited and money is dropped on the steps when climbed.

Steps at temple 23.

These reach high in the sky. From the top you can see the town.

Steps leading to temple 23 main hall.

Steps leading to temple 23 main hall and pagoda.
Continuing the climb on stone steps.


The main meditation hall and pagoda are impressive with their vermillion paint.

Temple 23 pagoda and main hall.

The hall is open to visitors.

Front entrance of main hall at temple 23.

Beautiful construction!

A majestic vie of temple 23 on Shikoku.

Lanterns at main hall at temple 23.
View of town from main hall.
A look at the city from the main hall.

Another view looking out from the hall.

A passageway back down to the temple grounds.

After visiting the temple, it was time to find the hostel that I booked the day before. I barely beat the rain.

It is raining now. My room is cozy and for tonight I am the only occupant in an all female dorm room. Tomorrow night, I will be here with 3 men, in the same space, when it will be considered a mixed dorm room. Sometimes that happens on the pilgrimage.

My bed at the hostel. Yes, there are privacy curtains for each cubby!

Tonight I will simply enjoy this view outside my window.


Baadaye and Mata ne

Shirley J 🌸



During the spring of 2024, I began a pilgrimage in Japan where I am walking 1200 kilometers or 720 miles on the Shikoku trail from Temple 1 RyĹŤzenji to Temple 88 ĹŚkuboji and beyond. Read my original announcement here.

I am excited, and I am here, still walking. And just know this, I will return to tell the tale!






4 thoughts on “🌸 Noire Henro-san: Healing Temple

  1. I know that the little girl came out for a few minutes while you was on the swing, loved the video, the knee looks a bit bad , good it’s doing better, love you and be safe.

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