Granite pillar on a road pointing to Temple 20 on Shikoku pilgrimage.
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limbing a mountain to get to temple 20 takes a lot of walking, breathing, and revving up the energy to just do it. It is a steep climb to the top. Here is the scenario: a seemingly “easy” way to temple 20 is offered to you. You have already walked more than 10 kilometers on a very hot day on pavement, would you do it? If it shaved off two kilometers from your walk? But you have to get there.
Catch your breath on this one! I accepted help climbing this mountain.
The best or worst of both worlds… steps and rippled asphalt. These surfaces serve a purpose in inclement weather. Any walker will appreciate these when climbing a mountain. They provide a decent foothold to prevent slipping and sliding while walking uphill.
Well, I got an awakening, a workout, and a lot of “green”.
Let me explain in this video. 👈🏾Yes, click there.
Hello old friend
I met another old friend from my first day on the trail. As I was walking up to temple 20, he was walking back down.
Remember he was the 80 year old ohenro wearing two-toed boots or jika-tabi on his first pilgrimage walk. He was still wearing them! Unfortunately, his walking stick was taken from a previous temple. It looked like an old one with a beautiful brocade cover (tsue kabā) over the top of the stick. It was most likely a family heirloom. He tried to find it but did not.
How do I know? I saw him urgently searching for his walking stick. At first, I did not know what he was looking for. He was looking around the temple grounds at the stick receptacles. Typically, sticks are intermingled in the holders while pilgrims visit or pray at temple buildings. When done, people pick up their walking sticks and go on their way. Sometimes people walk away from the temple before realizing that it is missing. The majority go back to retrieve them.
I thought that the old man was doing just that. Soon, it occurred to me that he had not left the temple grounds, but that his stick had most likely been pilfered. And he still walks the trail. My heart sank in sympathy for my fellow ohenro.
Sympathy for a Buddhist
Since then I saw him at other temples but without a stick at all. Whenever I saw him, I looked to see if he had his stick… or any stick. And even when I did not run into him, I looked for his stick when retrieving my own after visiting the temple halls and offices.
My old friend is determined to complete his pilgrimage. I hope he finds his stick before the end. It was important to him on his first and maybe only Shikoku 88 walk. 🕉️
The Heart of the Matter
Therefore, Sariputra, it is because of his non-attainmentness that a Bodhisattva, through having relied on the Perfection of Wisdom, dwells without thought-coverings. In the absence of thought-coverings he has not been made to tremble, he has overcome what can upset, and in the end he attains to Nirvana.
We both know this. It is not the clothes, the book of stamps, or the stick. It is the pilgrim’s heart and the mind. But it is mainly the heart. That old man is my lesson for the day, perhaps for the entire pilgrimage.
Climbing a mountain
Higher…
and higher!
Another fork in the path – another decision for me.
Walking sticks are on this steep path. They are for ohenros who need a little help climbing the mountain and getting to the temple.
I have my own trusty walking stick.
Temple 20 Kakurin-ji
Finally the temple grounds. 👈🏾Yes, click there.
The approach toward the temple gate is always mystical in the mountains. I think the effects of straining to get to the top catch up with you at the gate. I said this already: I have an emotional reaction when I bow before entering.
Ablutions at a temple fountain cools an overheated soul.
The temple grounds were not crowded at all. I rested here in the coolness of the mountain air. It was hot during the climb. The cool air felt good but I had to put on a light jacket under my white pilgrim’s coat.
Rest for the weary
I arrived at my night’s lodging after climbing another mountain.
I am happy.
See you next time.
During the spring of 2024, I began a pilgrimage in Japan where I am walking 1200 kilometers or 720 miles on the Shikoku trail from Temple 1 Ryōzenji to Temple 88 Ōkuboji and beyond. Read my original announcement here.
I am excited, and I am here, still walking. And just know this, I will return to tell the tale!
Baadaye and Mata Ne
Shirley J 🌸
